Big Red Liquors, Inc.

We often talk of food and wine in the same breath, as if the two are inseparable, and yet many of us have trouble reconciling one with the other. When the

subject is food and wine matching, anyone who has ever pulled a cork is ready with an opinion. That is fine, because, as we all know, in matters of personal taste there can be no dispute. Taste is subjective, after all. Or is it? I am of the opinion that, when considered separately, food and wine are far easier to assess than when tasted together, but that a skilful pairing of the two can lead to a sensory experience far more pleasurable than the sum of the parts. There is much debate, however, as to how this magical epiphany is best achieved.

Wine and food pairing is an inexact science, so stick to some easy principles:

Intensity. Rather than simply match white wine with fish and red wine with meat, try to establish the weight of a dish. Is it heavy or light? Will the food overwhelm the wine you serve, or will the reverse happen?
It is generally true that the bigger, fuller-bodied reds and oakier whites from the United States and Australia are less food friendly than their European counterparts. These big, hearty wines might be best served with very simple dishes, such as hors d’oeuvres or grilled dishes.
Use your knowledge of the weights of wine to help in this regard. All you need to know is the acid level, the alcohol, the level of extract, the sweetness (if any) and the degree of oaking (if any.)
Actual flavors are not particularly important. Think in terms of texture, not taste. Why? Because we all have different ideas about the taste of wine. While one person might believe that a given wine tastes of apricots, another person might believe that it tastes of pineapple. Because taste is so subjective, using taste alone as a basis for food and wine matching might be counter-productive. It is far easier (and more important) to assess the weight, acidity, alcohol and oak in a wine than it is to agree upon its flavor components.
Don’t be afraid of sweeter wines, especially whites. There’s a very good reason for the evolution of off-dry wines in Germany, and it’s not just to do with the American G.I.’s sweet tooth.
Complement or contrast. A rich white may go well with a fish dish in a rich cream sauce, but the acid of a fine Riesling or Chenin Blanc may equally well cut through the fat in such a dish. Sometimes the refreshing acidity of a crisp, unoaked wine is preferable to the fat, low acid texture of an oaky chardonnay. Of course, a classic dish, such as a Dover sole with a beurre blanc sauce, would be perfectly complemented by a rich white Burgundy. These wines, however, are naturally very high in acid, so the general principle holds true.
Spicy with spicy? Usually not. Many people will automatically serve a big spicy Syrah or Zinfandel with spicy food. This may be a case of overkill. Spicy food generally seems better served by an aromatic white, such as Riesling, Gewurztraminer or Pinot Blanc, or by a lighter, more acidic red, such as Pinot Noir or Gamay. Of course, there are always exceptions: the big, generous flavors of Cajun, Creole or Island cooking are often well complemented by a robust Zinfandel, a fruity Chardonnay or a spicy Syrah. Indian food, on the other hand, is often difficult to match to red wine, and, as often as not, beer might prove to be the beverage of choice.
A light red may work well in place of a fuller white, especially in the case of grilled fish. For example, Pinot Noir has become a classic accompaniment to grilled salmon.
Having said that, white wine nearly always goes better with fish than red wine. There are obvious exceptions, such as the preceding example, but not many. Again, the texture and fat content of the flesh of the fish will help you decide how heavy a wine to serve.
Some white wines, especially sauvignon blanc, have a tendency to turn shellfish earthy or even metallic.
Although it’s fun to find a good match for asparagus or artichokes, don’t knock yourself out. These are very difficult foods to match.
If in doubt, fall back on something tried and true: for most occasions a lightly oaked (or unoaked) Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc or a New World Pinot Noir or a dry rosé will work well with a wide range of foods. A lighter, less oaky Merlot from Chile or Argentina will usually make a fine all-purpose red. Consider these wines to be ‘no brainers.’
Cheese is usually best matched with white wine. Often a hint of sweetness provides the perfect counterpoint to the tang of aged Brie or Stilton. The traditional combination of Stilton and Port is fine, however, although quite indulgent. Sometimes a lighter sweet red, such as Banyuls, might be preferable.
Riesling, preferably just off dry (in other words of Kabinett or Spätlese level) is an extremely versatile wine. If you can get past the psychological barrier of drinking a sweetish wine, you will find that the better examples from Germany, Austria and Australia to be particularly food-friendly.
Try traditional wines with traditional food. Most European wine growing regions have their distinct regional culinary styles and traditions. One can often do a lot worse than enjoy the local wines and foods together. Bear in mind that most European wines are lighter-bodied and less alcoholic than their New-World counterparts, as well as being higher in acidity.
Drink what you enjoy drinking and eat what you enjoy eating. It generally works out fine in the end!